Peptides are a commonly used ingredient in facial skincare, but they're also often misunderstood. We know they're good to have, but we don't know why? We're diving into this complicated topic to explain exactly what peptides are and why we need them in our routine.
What are peptides?
To understand peptides, we need a little chemistry. We need to think of them in their chemical relationship to two other elements - amino acids and proteins . Peptides are short chains of amino acids that make up proteins like collagen and elastin. The body is made up of thousands of different proteins, each with a specific function. Collagen is the most abundant protein in the body and makes up an impressive 75% of our skin .
These proteins, like collagen and elastin, are constantly being regenerated and replaced throughout our lives. For this reason, we need a healthy supply of their building blocks (amino acids) to replenish them. So, here we go: where can we get them? Amino acids usually come from our diet through protein. The body breaks them down back into amino acids, then reassembles them into new peptides and proteins. Have we confused you even more? Let's get to the important part.
What do peptides do in the skin?
There's a difference between how the body uses peptides and how we use them in skincare. Peptides in skincare help rebuild proteins like collagen and elastin that are depleted over time. They have advantages over whole proteins, which are too large to penetrate the skin, and amino acids, which are unable to deliver specific messages.
Peptides can work in different ways and have different effects on the skin depending on the specific combination of amino acids they are made of. It is important to note that the efficacy of peptides depends on their type and their concentration in the product, as well as the delivery system to the skin. For example, our peptide Serum nourishes and awakens the skin by activating the natural production of collagen and elastin . It supports the skin in its natural processes. Our innovative multipeptide complex successfully fights the signs of time, and the combination of hyaluronic acid and vitamin C leaves the skin deeply hydrated and with an even complexion.
What are the different types of peptides in skincare?
There are four key types of peptides used in skincare.
Signal peptides : which “send” signals to the skin to promote the production of proteins such as collagen and elastin.
Neurotransmitter inhibitory peptides : which help block the release of chemicals that cause the muscle contractions of expression lines. They work in a similar way to Botox to soften existing lines and prevent new ones from forming.
Carrier peptides : help “carry” elements that help form proteins (such as collagen and elastin) to where they need to be.
Enzyme inhibitor peptides : help prevent the breakdown of existing collagen and elastin.
Are peptides suitable for all skin types?
Peptides are generally considered non-irritating and therefore can be well tolerated by all skin types – even sensitive skin. This is mostly due to the fact that they don’t need to be used in extreme percentages, they don’t have a low pH, and their mechanism of action doesn’t cause them to do things like speed up cell turnover (which can cause irritation). Peptides also already exist in the skin, so they don’t introduce anything new, but rather replenish lost reserves.
When in my routine should I use peptides?
Unlike other powerful actives like retinoids and alpha-hydroxy acids, peptides won't increase sun sensitivity, so they can be used at any time of day. To have the maximum opportunity to work their magic, they're best used after cleansing or exfoliating the skin.